Teeing off
I’m reviewing The Mona Social, The Boathouse Group’s latest venue, a bar and bistro sitting aloft Mona Vale Golf Club’s headquarters. It opened in May, boasting fare created by former Tetsuya chef and current Boathouse Group Head of Culinary, Mark LaBrooy, and head chef Cameron Johnston, (think Bathers Pavilion and Peterman).
Walking in, you’re hit smack in the face with uninhibited, spectacular views of the green fringed by the sparkling blue of the ocean. The restaurant itself offers a breezy carefree, spacious vibe, reminiscent of the bistros in Queensland surf clubs – a relaxed, casual holiday-like atmosphere. It’s timber-based with a bar area to the left offering cocktails, food, tap beer, pool tables and an in-house golf simulator.
Just feed me
Now, I’m no passionate foodie. I either like the taste, or I don’t; think it value for money, or not; service is great or lacking. Wordy, flowery menus are an enormous irritation to me, particularly those conjuring images of the chef himself going forth singlehandedly to forage the food or harvest the micro greens. I don’t want ‘foam’, when mousse or meringue is fine; nor do I want to eat something ‘unctuous’ or ‘robust’. The Mona Social menu is deliciously simple, following the trend of just listing the ingredients, rather than complicating things with complex descriptions. There were also sufficient choices to satisfy the celiac, dairy/nut free and vegetarians.
Entrées range from $9, (Smoked Eel & Pork Fritti or an Anchovy Crumpet), to a dozen Sydney Rock Oysters at $70. Our choice, the Octopus Skewer ($13), was substantial, cosied up with kipfler potato, carrot, nduja and dill, while the juicy Grilled Prawns ($35) in a keen’s marinade with yoghurt and curry leaf were surprisingly filling.
Mains ranged from a Caesar Salad at $26 to a $68, 300gm Scotch Fillet. We settled for the BBQ Pork ($37) and the Braised Beef Cheek ($44). I’m not a huge fan of pork, but this was a time to step out of my comfort zone and I’m pleased I did. Served in one piece and dressed in grilled apple puree, black kale and mustard jus, the flavours shone, blended just to enhance, rather than smother, while the beef fell apart at the mere approach of the fork, and served with parsnip puree, caramelised onions and artichoke chips, was a meat lover’s dream. A surprising highlight was the simple green salad, nothing fancy, just fresh, crispy large colourful leaves, tanged by a mustard dressing and marinated eschalot, perfect for refreshing the palate.
The nineteenth hole
Deserts, Crème Caramel ($14) and Lemon Tart ($14), were delicious and amply portioned, but the Hot Fudge Sundae ($16) disappointed with hardened chocolate globs ruining the overall texture and flavour.
Naturally, with timber floors and surrounds, the restaurant is noisy, but the tables are well spaced to enable privacy. As for the service, it was fantastic and fun with the personable Lucy. Meanwhile, my lofty position overlooking the green flanked by Norfolk Pines and the glittering ocean, almost tempted me to consider hitting off. Almost. It was the thought of having to continue to chase that little white ball and thwack it with a big stick that encouraged me to saunter to the bar instead. Cocktail anyone?
